Yves Saint Laurent featured in Paris Fashion Week, photosource: NY Mag.
The French are perhaps best known in the fashion world for effortless style. From iconic design houses like Chanel to Givency, Lanvin to Louis Vuitton, it’s no wonder Paris Fashion Week is the most anticipated each season. And while every Paris show gives us whimsical looks unparelled to other cities, on the cutting edge of color, structure, texture and volume, there is one wardbrobe staple that always steals the spotlight: the little black dress.
Invented by France’s own Coco Chanel in the 1920s, the timeless look is given new life season after season. Black is universally stylish and slimming– what girl could go wrong with a black cocktail dress, pearls, clutch and heels? But each season also offers new embellishments to accessorize the classic. And while New Yorkers are known for dressing up basic black and Londoners are labeled as fashion exhibitionists, nobody does it better than the French. See how some of the world’s best design houses reinterpret one of the simplest, chicest looks of all time.
At Balenciaga, designer Nicholas Ghesquiere gave the LBD a tough-meets-sweet aesthetic. Touches of lace, a velvet coat and satin bow were almost prim, but bronze cuffs gave the look a little weight.
Balmain (above) showed the LBD in trendy rockstar style: strapless, skintight and studded. Seriously buckled boots anchored the skant hemline. A similar style traded the studs for a wide belt and added a few more feminine touches: a ruffled hem and sweetheart neckline.
But it was classy Chanel (above) that gave the LBD the most shock value: a plunging neckline, paired unexpectedly with long sleeves and a conservative length. At once daring and darling, it was the perfect nod to Chanel’s early flapper style. A daintier – and warmer – version was a knitted black dress layered over a frothy, ruffled pink sweater and wooly pink tights.
1925 LBD by Chanel, photosource: St. Petersburg Times.
Chanel’s update was in good company with the femme fatale looks at Lanvin and Yves Saint Laurent. There, the LBDs were longer, sleeker and draped to one shoulder. Jean Paul Gaultier showed a similar style, opting for sheer cap sleeves instead of a single shoulder and a high, dramatic neckline and peekaboo hem. The black accessories, from belts to tiny caps and gloves, suggested that these fierce ladies-who-lunch should not be taken lightly.
At Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs gave the LBD a sumptuous new shape. The pouffed sleeves, banded middle and artistically-draped skirt was a structural marvel. A ladylike black and gold LV purse and black ribboned heels were perfect finishing touches.
Both Christian Lacroix (featured above on the runway) and Givenchy (famous for designing LBDs worn by Audrey Hepburn) experimented with glimpses of navy amid all the black. Christian Lacroix showed a one-shoulder navy and black number with sensuous draping, with complimentary paisley-patterned tights. Givenchy cinched a filmy navy and black ensemble together with a rich purple belt. Could the little navy dress be next?
Last but never least, British designer Stella McCartney showed what was perhaps the best modern reimagination of the little black dress. Hers was the classic length – not too long, not too short – and hugged every curve. With feminine detailing, from the cutout lace around the neck to the long, sheer lacy sleeves and velvet bust, McCartney’s LBD was a little bit babydoll, a little bit naughty secretary, and incredibly sexy.
If you’ve got a fancy fete coming up and want to update your LBD, look to the Paris Fashion Week designers for truly chic inspirations. Try adding a few rock and roll elements, like leather, studs or combat boots. Or opt for a softer, girlier aesthetic with lace, satin or velvet. Of course, LBDs are always classically chic when paired with pearls and pumps.
The best part of rocking this timeless style? If you’ve got a great eye and tailoring skills – or a tailor! – you can always find an amazing vintage sheath and give it a modern makeover. Vintage cocktail dresses are always in style, and if you’re lucky enough you may find something by a long-established designer that looks brand new and is in tune with the latest runway styles. See previous Green Cotton posts on how to score amazing thrift and vintage finds. And let us know what you thought about this season’s Paris runway shows and the newest LBDs!
All photo’s were sourced from NYmag.com under Fashion Shows/2009/fall/main/europe/womenrunway
By Erin Dale
I am loving the effortless style and the timeless feel of some of the pieces you posted here.
I really like the rockstar version of that LBD. Something exciting about it!
Did I miss something? Was there any mention of organic cotton or other more sustainable fabrics in this article? Perhaps that’s because the big designers still need to get on the sustainability train and there’s nothing sustainable to write about from Paris Fashion Week. London’s Fashion Week was apparently greener. Check this out: http://www.greenwala.com/Youre_In_Then_Youre_Out
Justine, appreciate your comment. There was not anything specific on organic cotton or other sustainable fabrics you are right. We try to cover the major fashion events and look at them from a green lens, but still pay attention to design, color, form and structure. When designers use organic and sustainable fabrics or manufacturing processes, we are the first to highlight it. When they do not, we review the trends in design, and sadly this year, it was not so eco. I agree entirely that the London’s week was a lot more green this year!