Green Cotton

Photosource: Women’s Wear Daily

One night a year, the fashion industry’s most influential gather to fete the year’s stellar design achievements at the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) Fashion Awards. This year’s ceremony took place on Monday, June 15, and honored both up-and-coming talent and contemporary legends.

The glamorous event, often called “the Oscars of Fashion,” attracted not only top designers but fashion-forward celebrities like Diane Kruger, Claire Danes and Blake Lively. Although it may not be the most eco-friendly of fashion events, the green fashion industry should still take note; like the seasonal runway shows, it’s vital for everyone in the industry to track cutting-edge trends and emerging talent. Honorees and winners alike are shaping fashion’s future—perhaps one day, even next year, some of your favorite eco-fashion designers will become CFDA award nominees. Whether you personally don these designers’ clothes or simply admire their skill and style from afar, the following artists are ones to watch:

Photosource: Women’s Wear Daily

Rodarte
Kate and Laura Mulleavy, sisters and design duo behind Rodarte, took home the coveted Womenswear Designer of the Year award. Relative newcomers on the scene (their line debuted in 2005), these girls from Pasadena have taken the runway, magazine pages and fashion blogs by storm. Their intricate knitwear, inspired by everything from ballerinas to Japanese horror films, has appeared on countless covers (including Vogue) and on icons like Michelle Obama (She wore Rodarte to meet Queen Rania of Jordan) and Natalie Portman (Her orchid-pink gown at this year’s Oscars? Rodarte). Expect upcoming designs to mirror Rodarte’s lookbook—their influence will be felt for years to come. Green Cotton mentioned Rodarte in last September’s New York Fall Fashion Week runway review, highlighting their edgy rock ‘n’ roll leather looks and funky shredded knits.
Official site:

Alexander Wang Spring 09 Collection. Photo source: lacouturiernyc

Alexander Wang
This young talent has come a long way since his intern days at Teen Vogue. Another Californian design star, this San Francisco native moved to New York at 18 and attended Parsons Design School; a short year later (in 2005), his eponymous collection was launched, and the fashion world took note. Fashion editors and fans swoon for his cashmere cardigans, distressed denim and oversized blazers and vests. This is the effortless, lived-in style Wang likes to call MOD: “Model-Off Duty.” Last year, Wang took home the Vogue/CFDA Fund; on Monday night, he became the CFDA Swarovski Womenswear Designer of the Year. Green Cotton discussed Alexander Wang’s Spring 2009 line during our fall runway review—we loved his boyfriend blazer paired with short-shorts and seriously sexy shoes.

Marc Jacobs
A worldwide fashion favorite, Marc Jacobs is known for revitalizing the Louis Vuitton brand—and for his own quirky lines, Marc Jacobs and Marc by Marc Jacobs. The brief story is that Marc became a fashion star in the ‘80s while still a student at Parsons. He launched Marc Jacobs in 1986, and in the following year won the CFDA’s Perry Ellis Award for New Fashion Talent, the youngest to ever do so. In 1992, the CFDA awarded him the Womenswear Designer of the Year award, and in 1997 Jacobs became Creative Director at Louis Vuitton. Jacobs has since put the luxury label on the tip of everyone’s lips, particularly thanks to his collaborations with the likes of Kanye West and Sofia Coppola. On Monday night, Jacobs snagged the International Award for his work at Louis Vuitton.

Anna Sui Spring 09 Collection. Photo source: www.whorange.net

Anna Sui
A fashion lover in Detroit who began crafting her own clothes at age four has grown to a design powerhouse with boutiques all over the world. The CFDA bestowed Anna Sui with the Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement award. Her eccentric, rock ‘n’ roll and Victorian-inspired designs have earned rave reviews since her first runway show in 1991. Since then, Sui has become a star of the New York fashion scene and has gained a major cult following in Asia. Sui is another design favorite at Green Cotton—we reviewed her Spring 2009 collection, loving her bright, embellished “boho-chic” frocks that teetered on the edge of feminine sweetness and rockstar spunk.

Jason Wu
This former doll clothes designer didn’t come away as a big winner Monday night, but the young man who designed Michelle Obama’s now-famous inauguration gown can hardly complain. At 26 years old, he’s already launched a highly successful line that is carried by Bergdorf’s, Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and more. And, oh yes, he can say he’s dressed the First Lady. Not too shabby, considering Wu debuted his eponymous line just three years ago. Wu may have lost the Swarovski Award to Alexander Wang, but his star is only just beginning to rise.

Photosource: Women’s Wear Daily

Michelle Obama
You know her, you love her, you just can’t get enough of her classy, all-American fashion sense. Neither can the CFDA. Our First Lady (Commander in Chic!) was awarded with the CFDA Board of Directors’ Special Tribute. Mrs. Obama could not attend the event but accepted the honor via video, which you can view on Style.com.  Obama expressed her gratitude and love for the CFDA community: “The ingenuity and craftsmanship of American designers contributes so much to our economy and to our culture.” She went on to say how honored she was to get to celebrate “the legends and future legends” and thanked American designers for “making fashion liberating, inspiring, but most of all, fun.”

To learn more about the CFDA, and for a full list of winners and nominees, visit www.cfda.com.

Green Cotton wants to hear from you! Who are your favorite American designers? And which eco-fashion designers would you like the CFDA to recognize?

By Erin Dale

Primary source: Women’s Wear Daily

We found sometime to catch up with Jannae Knopse, the winner of our Green Cotton Earth Day Contest, for an interview to hear more about what she is doing to make the earth a greener place. We are so pleased to learn more about her ethics, goals, dreams, and just exactly what she did for Earth Day! Jannae turns out to be a fascinating artist, true to her morals and sure in her goals.

Read our interview to find out more about Jannae:

Green Cotton (GC): What motivated you to become a designer?

Jannae (J): “I think of myself as less of a designer and more of an artist (granted one who mostly does design work…).

“In any case I had this really amazing art history teacher at a young age that convinced me that I had a future in the arts if I wanted it. Through his class I learned about the power art had in the cultural, historical, and political realms I was particularly inspired by the connection through propaganda and from there on out all I wanted to do was be a part of the arts.”

“I was so fascinated by the relationship that when I got to college (RISD), I majored in printmaking because of its use in propaganda and distribution.

“Printmaking led me to screen printing which led me to shirts which led me to think about cultural and political implications of production. Shirts became my way to affect the world around me.”

GC: Tell us about Slug of the Sea. What inspired you to create designs of insects, bugs and other creatures?

J: “Propaganda and political art often use animals to show an intended meaning. These meanings come from both cultural identities we assign the animals and how the animal is portrayed in the design.

“I started with ants.

“Ants tend to have a military identity and at the time that was the type of propaganda I was most interested in. I wanted to make the way I displayed the ants more honest to their actual behaviors. I realized that it was the relationship of reality to decorative identities which I found most interesting.

“The rest of the insect line followed as an exercise in trying to attract people to things they have aversions to as a way (hopefully) to make them think about what they truly have a problem with… the insect or the way we culturally identify it. Though I’m more then okay with people just thinking they’re funny or cute!”

“Cockroaches hiding out of sight” Unisex sweatshirt from Jannae’s Slug of the Sea line

Photosource: http://shop.slugofthesea.com/

J: “And lucky for me my name ended up fitting into my new aesthetic.

“My first name, Jannae (JUH-nay), is generally considered a pretty name (at least I think so). It turns out that it is also the species name of a sea slug found in Northern California and the west coast of Canada. A pretty name with an adverse secondary meaning! I couldn’t be more meant to be!”

GC: What is your goal with Slug of the Sea (SOS)?

J: “Oh my, what isn’t my goal? I really would like to figure out how to make Slug of the Sea my full-time job, but not just by selling clothes. Over the last year or so I’ve gotten to experience ways I would love to expand it:

“I love doing freelance designing for companies whose mission statements I really respect like the Wildlife Conservation Society, Edun Live, and Malaria No More. This work allows me access to the cultural and political missions I’m interested in. I couldn’t think of a better full time job for me. Anyone with a good mission statement and the need for some design work let me know!

“I also really enjoyed giving a speech at my old college about green washing and fairly made goods in the imprinted apparel industry. The more artists/designers make informed and responsible decisions, the better for all of us. The only way to make things better is to have the most people possible working towards and spending their money on it. That is what will make a difference.

“I also love selling my shirts. The more successful they are the happier I will be. Not only are they a great way to create art, but it allows me to produced clothes the way I preach it should be done. I’ve worked in the imprinted apparel industry as an eco and fairly made consultant for my customers at my day job at a print shop for about two years, so I have the inside scoop on the production policies for many blank apparel companies.

“I only use clothes made by American Apparel (I know all the drama but they are USA made in good conditions and they have an eco line, and I judge the company based on their production standards not their sex lives) or Edun-Live.

“For those who don’t know, Edun-Live is a company created by Bono of U2 and his wife Ali Hewson. The idea of the line is to create sustainable economies in sub-Saharan Africa through fair production. They also have a 100% organic line and they work with the Wildlife Conservation Society to create the Cotton Conservation Society, which is dedicated to insuring the growth of their cotton is as environmentally friendly as possible.

I’m classically trained in Fine Art print making so that will always be my first love so my goal is to sell as much as I can so I can keep producing them.”

GC: Is SOS an eco-line? (and if so how so)?

J: “I wouldn’t call it an eco-line. I’m dedicated to making as many eco choices as possible, but to call it an eco line would imply that everything about it is ecologically friendly. As much as I try, it isn’t totally possible yet (I don’t want what to be a green-washer!). I do have to admit that my main concern is social justice. To me insuring as many eco choices as possible is a part of that. The chemicals and pesticides in question not only harm the earth but the people who come in contact with them. Farmers touch and breath it etc. the ginners, weavers, and sewers touch their fair share too I’m sure depending on the processing of the cotton. Those of us in print shops are breathing some fun stuff from the inks too…

I am eco because: When I can afford it, I use organic cotton tees (though I always buy as fairly made as possible). I will be posting a new organic style shortly– keep your eye out! My packaging for the tees are all printed on 100% post-consumer recycled paper and made in the USA. For the prints, I back all of them with the old cardboard boxes from shirt shipments. The inks that I choose to use produce minimal waste.

I am not eco because: Not all of my shirts are organic, I still have to have the blanks shipped to and from me, I have to use plastic to protect the prints, though there is very little waste my inks are not water-based inks (water-based textile inks create a lot of waste so they aren’t really that eco friendly either…)”

GC: Green Cotton awarded you our Earth Day award for your Eco-work in the month of April with Edun-Live. Can you tell us about a little more about your experience working for Edun-live?

J: “Edun-Live quickly became a favorite vendor of mine at my day job in the print shop. They had both fairly made shirts and even some organic styles. Then last summer I started to do some freelance designing for them during which I developed an even bigger crush on Edun. This crush has lead me to want to dedicate more time to such a great cause/company, hence the work I did with them for earth day and throughout the month of April. This opportunity combined my passion and talent for art with my love and desire to make the world a better place!

While there I was able to build up my portfolio while doing things to support a company I respect. Throughout the month I worked on marketing materials, some web design, and designs to be reproduced on tee-shirts. The stuff I was most excited about working on was the printed marketing materials.”

“Year of the Gorilla” T-shirt designed by Jannae while at Edun-Live

Photosource: http://slugofthesea.com/scrapbook.jpg

J: “I also designed posters, hand outs and an earth-day newsletter while I was there. Design and advertising is the best way to inform others about what you are doing and inspiring them to help too; not doing so is the downfall of many a good mission. Maybe it’s just my love of propaganda talking but helping a company create an advertising campaign that informs the public and potential customers of what they are doing right is one of the best things I could do with my time and talent.”

GC: If you had any recommendations for the apparel industry what would they be?

J: “Be honest: this green-washing crap isn’t really going to help anything or anyone in the end.

“It’s great that the public is pressuring big companies to consider what they are doing but the companies turning around and tricking the public isn’t going to change what people want. Maybe you’ll make more money in the short term, but I’ve got to believe (even if it is just to make myself feel better) that this isn’t going away and eventually you’ll have to actually do what you say. And how about while you’re at it be a little preemptive and see that fairly made goods are coming up as the next big thing. Maybe you can be the first to coin the great catch phrase for it, too.”

---

We loved becoming more familiar with Jannae’s devotion to her ethics, and honesty. Green washing can certainly be a step backwards. So once again, congratulations Jannae! Keep up the good work. We also hope more and more people will see the value in saving our environment everyday.

Please check out her own line, Slug of the Sea, at http://slugofthesea.com/index.html.

From Somewhere at UK RE Fashion Awards 2008

Last Thursday night, British fashion icons, celebrities and pioneers of the eco-fashion movement gathered at the RE: Fashion Awards in London to celebrate innovators in this ever-growing industry. As Green Cotton reported, this event was the first of its kind: an awards show solely dedicated to celebrating the best in organic, sustainable, fair trade, ethical fashion. Participants included models and British “It-Girls” Daisy Lowe and Pixie Geldorf, as well as designers Vivienne Westwood and Preen.

Many beloved British designers and clothing companies were nominated for awards like RE: Designer of the Year. This honor went to From Somewhere, a sustainable fashion label that manufactures its runway-worthy designs from recycled fabrics and surplus textiles. Izzy Lane received both the RE: New Designer of the Year Award along with the Estethica Prize, while Adili was named the RE:Retailer of the Year. For a full list of winners, check out the official RE: Fashion website.

Events like this are integral in helping introduce eco-fashion into the mainstream; hopefully this is the first of many! Lucy Shea, director of Futerra Sustainability Communications, was quoted on the RE: Fashion site, saying, “Britain is leading the ethical make-over of the fashion industry… tonight’s winners are tomorrow’s household names.”

Let’s hope that holds true, and continue to support ethical fashion worldwide! What do you think of the British eco-fashion industry? How do you think it compares to that of the U.S.? Any favorite designers you’d like to share? Let us know! We’d love to hear from you.

By Erin Dale