Green Cotton

The Swedish clothing retailer H&M is usually raved over and blogged about for its bargain-priced, runway-inspired pieces. But recently the company came under fire for reportedly slashing unworn clothing to pieces – using a machine to cut holes in items and render them un-wearable – and tossing the clothes out with the trash.

The dumping was discovered at New York’s 34th street H&M by City University of New York graduate student Cynthia Magnus. When Magnus contacted H&M’s headquarters in Sweden, she received no response. She even offered to connect H&M with a local charity so that it would be easy of them to dispose of the clothing more effectively, but still no response.

Desperate, Magnus told her story to the New York Times. The Times did some follow-up, then published an article on Tuesday, January 5, 2010. Clearly striking a cord with many a reader, the story happened to be the second most tweeted headline of the day. After waking up to the angry national buzz over the issue, H&M finally paid attention to the issue, and released a statement reported in the Times:

“It will not happen again,” said Nicole Christie, a spokeswoman for H&M in New York. “We are committed 100 percent to make sure this practice is not happening anywhere else, as it is not our standard practice.”

The standard practice is, apparently, to donate unworn clothes and shoes to charity. Christie claimed that she did not know why this particular H&M store was destroying clothes, and that the company is investigating its other stores to make sure this wasteful practice is not happening elsewhere.

The New York Clothing Bank is one such charity that would have gladly accepted H&M’s unwanted garments (or similarly-slashed items from a New York City Wal-Mart that was also discovered demolishing clothes and dumping them on 35th street). Mary Lanning, chairwoman of the Clothing Bank, told the Times, “I would welcome H&M, Wal-Mart and every other enterprise that presently is destroying new clothing to call me immediately.”

Allegedly, H&M is also trying to go green. The Times reports that the Sweden-based company “has an executive in charge of corporate responsibility who leads the company’s sustainability efforts. On its Web site, H&M reports that to save paper, it has shrunk its shipping labels.”

This discovery of H&M’s wastefulness could not have come at a worse time— right after the launch of a new “Garden Collection,” which features clothes made from recycled textiles and PET bottles. It’s a nice attempt, but the humiliation H&M has suffered after this unfortunate incident will make it difficult for their “garden” to flourish.

Apparently, H&M is not alone in their dumping of unused, unsold apparel. Writer, researcher Erika Kawalek, a New York-based journalist, published a very interesting and informative piece on Double X following the news of H&M (http://www.doublex.com/blog/xxfactor/why-hm-destroys-unsold-clothes) on why this industry-wide practice is happens. Who would have thought that these unworn clothes often end up as airline seat cushions?  Stay tuned for more on these issues with Erika Kawalek’s forthcoming fashion chronicle, Ragpicker. She’ll offer a rare behind the scenes look at post-market clothing & textiles in the fashion industry.

Photosource top: H&M

By Erin Dale

The Clean Clothes Campaign (CCC) is an international campaign focused on improving working conditions in the global garment and sportswear industries and on empowering workers, most of whom are women. There are CCC coalitions in 12 European countries, backed by a broader, international network of trade unions and NGOs in garment producing countries (Asia, Africa, Eastern Europe, and Central America). The CCC also cooperates with similar campaigns
in the United States, Canada, and Australia.

The Clean Clothes Campaign educates and mobilizes consumers, lobbies companies and governments, and offers direct support to workers as they fight for their rights and demand better working conditions.

According to a new report released by CCC : Major global retailers Carrefour, Tesco, Aldi, Lidl, and Walmart are seeing massive profits and increasing market share in the garment sector, as workers in their supply chains face increasing poverty, appalling conditions, and serious workers rights violations.

The Clean Clothes Campaign insists that companies bear a responsibility and have the power to ensure that workers throughout their supply chains are treated fairly. The CCC has developed a “Code of Labour Practices for the Apparel Industry Including Sportswear” based upon the conventions of the United Nations’ International Labour Organization. The principles set forth in this code include, among others, a minimum employment age, safe working requirements, set working hours and right to a living wage.

So where should we buy our clothes?

Actually this question is difficult to answer, because CCC doesn’t have a list of recommended “clean” companies.
But they do know what companies should be doing to improve working conditions and ensure respect for workers’ human rights.

• They should adopt a comprehensive, credible and transparent code of conduct based on the international labour standards and human rights conventions.
• They must implement the code with provisions for monitoring, verification, remediation, ethical purchasing.
• They should participate in a credible multi-stakeholder initiative that involves companies, unions, NGOs.

For more about CCC recommendations, check out on www.cleanclothes.org

Created in 2005, Pants to Poverty emerged as a result of the Make Poverty History phenomenon. Its mission is to make fair-trade and pesticide free cotton underwear, at half the price of competitors, while working with over 7,000 cotton farmers.

For 4 years now, Pants to poverty (P-to-P) has gained momentum. P-to-P developed a ethical and  transparent supply chain and a new type of underwear brand, while establishing a network of 70 independent shops and over 10,000 people in 16 countries around the world. Pants to Poverty has also recruited some of the world’s leading legal, branding and development organizations as its partners and achieved wide-reaching media coverage in National Newspapers, TV, Magazines, local papers and radio stations.

The underwear is made in India, using fair-trade certified and pesticide free cotton. However it’s not just the farms that are certified, but also the entire manufacturing process.

The supplier in India is called Pratibha Syntex in Indore, Madhya Pradesh, and apparently Patribha maintains close control over every process of the production of the pants. They work exceptionally closely with the farmers to ensure that we meet our objectives as having the most ethical, and transparent, supply chain possible.

Where does the cotton come from? The cotton from Pants to Poverty comes from the world’s first farmer owned marketing company for fair-trade and organic cotton, Zameen Organic. Based in Hyderabad in India, Zameen will soon be majority owned by the 6,700 of India’s poorest farmers, most of whom are in the Vidarbha region– an area where on average 26 farmers commit suicide every day due to unfair trade.

Zameen means that in exchange for their hard work on their own land, the farmers get:
-    A guaranteed fair, market price for their cotton.
-    Fair-trade and organic premiums
-    Organizational and agricultural support to establish their own co-operatives, bank accounts and maximize the impact of their organic farming.
-    A clean, chemical free environment to live in
In addition to this, Pants to Poverty is now donating an extra 50p per pair to fund the establishment of the world’s first source of child labour free seeds.

FAIR WAGES:
All skilled workers are paid considerably more than the minimum wage for the region in India to ensure that everyone has a good living wage.
SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY:
Going beyond regular expectations is part of Pratibha and Pants to Poverty’s committment to suppliers. Below, they outline just a few of the initiatives they are working on.
WOMEN’s EMPOWERMENT:
Women’s empowerment is core to the Pratibha approach with many management positions filled by women and dynamic new programs for women empowerment at all levels of the organization.

EXTENSIVE TRAINING PROGRAM:
As a high level of skill is required for textile manufacturing, training is an essential part of the work conducted by Pratibha’s Human Resources department. The importance of effective training is further bolstered by the massive recruitment that is ongoing at the plant to meet the elevated level of capacity with the five new spinning mills. Training focuses on both work and personal areas including:
-    Technical training to include Spinning, Knitting, Stitching etc..
-    Workers rights training: in relation to working hours, minimum wage, child labor in compliance with ISO 9001.

OTHER STAFF INITIATIVES:
-    A dedicated staff hospital
-    Subsidized food
-    Free accommodation
-    Free transport
-    Blood donation camp

ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION AND PROMOTION:
The textile industry is renowned for being one of the worst polluting industries and so Pratibha, in order to leave a positive impact on the planet, invests heavily in effective waste management:
-    95% of water is recycled within the plant
-    All waste is controlled within the plant
-    100 trees are planted per quarter (25,000 to date)
-    Participate in global campaigning events such as Earth Hour
-    First textile company in India to register for EARTH HOUR
-    Pratibha is using 3 way strategy of “REDUCE – REUSE-RECYCLE” for increasing sustainability throughout the chains

Check out and shop on Pants to Poverty website for more information.

Photos source: Pants to Poverty

By: Julie Finkel