Green Cotton

Kenneth Cole pumps at Dig N’ Swap
By Erin Dale

With fall fashion looks hitting stores now, it’s tempting to pop into the Gap, H&M or Anthropologie and supplement your current wardrobe, even create a whole new one. Sure, if you’re craving something new, you can go eco and buy something organic from a more sustainable store. But before you go hunting for brand new pieces, take a peek at Dig ‘N’ Swap.

Trading clothes with someone is an easy way to clean out your closet and give yourself a whole new look. But if you don’t have a trendy friend nearby who’d let you raid her wardrobe, Dig ‘N’ Swap makes life a little easier. First, you gotta dig: find things in your own closet that you’re ready to part with; then take digital photos of them and upload them to the Dig ‘N’ Swap website. Next, browse until you find something you love. The site is simple to navigate: you can search by keyword or click on the type of clothing or accessory you need. You can also click on the brands listed, from DKNY to Prada. Place a bid using one (or all) of the items you’d like to trade. Then, if your bid is accepted, voila! You’ve successfully swapped. Now you can feel great about scoring new fashions without negatively impacting the environment.

That’s the mission behind Dig ‘N’ Swap: to put less strain on natural resources “by allowing an item to go through several lives.” So what are you waiting for? Ready… set… swap!

A few highlights from my “digging”:

“Like new” Anne Taylor heels

Marc Jacobs pink winter coat

Vintage black Prada handbag

Kenneth Cole black leather rosebud heels featured top.

Growers of traditional, chemical dependent cotton would like us to believe that pesticide and fertilizer residue do not persist in the clothing we wear.  However, when gallons of chemicals are used on cotton plants – the oft-quoted ¾ pound of chemicals to grow enough cotton for one pair of jeans…not surprisingly some chemicals are absorbed by the cotton and then into our skin.

Is it possible to remove every trace of these toxic chemicals? And what effect do these chemicals have on our skin and bodies? While we know the answer the first question is yes, through the advent of certified organic cotton production and textile manufacturing, the latter remains to be answered. In the meantime, if you could eliminate harmful chemicals from any of the clothing you currently wear, which would you choose first?

Given the above information, I would have to choose intimates. Worn next to our most sensitive skin day and day out– bras, camisoles, underwear… well, they seem like a good place to start.

So here’s a round up of organic intimates: from the staples to the sublime

Faerie’s Dance carries plenty of well-priced basics. They have ethically sourced and manufactured hipsters, thongs, boyshorts and classic panties. Stock up on three-packs of bamboo/organic cotton panties here, plus a selection of bras and camisoles.

Rawganique’s is another good place to purchase basics. As well as panties, there are camisoles and a selection of bras like this lightweight gathered bra.  For guys, they carry hemp boxers, reportedly exceptionally soft and comfortable.

Ecoland’s soft bras and hipsters are undyed organic cotton, available in underwire and wireless styles. And for guys, Ecoland also offers men’s boxers and briefs.

Spirit of Nature, a UK based company, has a huge range, from basics, in bamboo and organic cotton, to silk, and even organic maternity and nursing bras.  They cater to men with boxer shorts too.

For something a little more special, Ciel make silk and cotton lingerie, like these lace-embellished boyshorts and matching cache coeur bra which are ethical with zero style sacrifice.

Ciel boyshorts featured above.

Enamore’s organic silk bras, panties, camisoles, and bridal lingerie are sure to cause a sensation!

The Oko Box has custom-made vintage style undies, made from deadstock vintage and new organic fabrics, like these darling paper bag waist bloomers.

And speaking of bags… Triumph created a bra for the Japanese market which converts into a shopping bag. The bra’s padding unfolds into the bag, which is hooked together by the underwire. The No! Shopping Bag Bra is actually quite pretty, but I’m not sure I grasp the concept… undressing in the grocery store? It’s really designed to highlight the 30 million plastic shopping bags thrown away in Japan annually.

I’m staying with my conventional reusable shopping bags, and hoping that someone special will treat me to something from Stella McCartney’s organic lingerie collection!

Photo top: Stella McCartney’s lingerie collection

Post by Brit

Most natural textiles – cotton, wool, linen, tencel, bamboo – are naturally cream or pale brown. Almost universally these fabrics are bleached before dyeing.

Natural shades of textiles vary, and starting the dye process with a white fabric enables the factory to anticipate the final color more precisely.

So honestly, how safe and environmentally friendly is it to bleach fabrics?

You know that bottle of bleach in your laundry room? The one with the safety cap, the warnings not to drink it or let children handle it or inhale the fumes or mix it with anything lest it go bang? That’s the exact same product that textiles are bleached with. And, often discharged into rivers.

The most widely used industrial bleaches are chlorine compounds, usually sodium hypochlorite – household bleach - or chlorine dioxide. Both are hazardous to factory workers, who are at risk of burns, lung and eye injuries.

So how do industrial bleaches affect the environment?

Sodium hypochlorite oxidizes organic matter in rivers and oceans to produce chemicals called trihalomethanes,  some of which are carcinogenic.

Chlorine dioxide also produces trihalomethanes in waterways. It also can form dioxins – carcinogens, mutagens, and tetrogenic compounds - which the body stores in fatty tissues almost indefinitely.

Bleaching also consumes large amounts of natural resources; primarily vast quantities of water used to rinse the fabric after bleaching, otherwise any residual bleach would weaken the fibers.

What are the alternatives to bleach ?

Unbleached fabrics clearly have an environmental advantage. Here’s a skater t-shirt for dudes,  and if I was four, I’d have a tantrum for this gorgeous little dress.

For other colors – and particularly for white and pale colors, such as achieving perfectly white jeans, or a pure white wedding dress, require the use of bleach.

Less environmentally damaging solutions to bleaching are the use of either hydrogen peroxide or ozone bleach. Both are chlorine-free, fairly benign chemical processes which produce no dioxins or trihalomethanes, and use less energy and water than chlorine-based bleach.

According to an ozone bleach promotional website, chlorine bleaching requires 8.28MJ of energy, and emits 800g of CO₂ to whiten 1kg of cotton yarn.

To bleach the same amount of cotton with ozone bleach would require 60% less energy and produce half the CO₂ emissions.

Ozone breaks down into pure oxygen as it bleaches, with no other by-products. But it’s hard to use, and factories must invest in new bleaching machinery to use ozone. Some factories are beginning to use ozone bleach in conjunction with chlorine bleach to reduce the quantity of chlorine bleach used – a step in the right direction.

Hydrogen peroxide has a similarly low environmental impact, as it breaks down into water and oxygen as it bleaches. It’s also easier to use, and products bleached with hydrogen peroxide are on our shelves (or our virtual shelves). Loop’s organic cotton towels and bedding are bleached with hydrogen peroxide, and ROMP’s organic white cotton shirts printed with French song lyrics are too.

Could Chlorine Bleaching Be Eliminated From the Textile Industry?

Chlorine bleaching currently dominates the textile industry but existing alternative technologies exist that can be used reasonably easily and cheaply, and have much lower environmental impact. Bleach pollution is a major problem, but it is one with a solution, and it’s possible that one day it will be history.

And for brides to be: yes! you can buy a wedding dress with without bleach. Olivia Luca’s wedding dresses made from unbleached fair trade handwoven silk shantung are elegant and eco-friendly.

Photo source above: Flickr