Green Cotton

We have been covering Fashion Week (particularly New York and London shows) at Green Cotton for the last few seasons, always keeping an eco eye on the runway. Though we are not always able to find much “green” in the tents, we are able to review the latest trends and predict how they will impact the eco scene. We are also thrilled to report whenever we see the green movement making major strides in the fashion industry. Thankfully, this is one of those posts. While Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week chose to make its last season at Bryant Park a carbon-neutral production (see Treehugger’s report), there was another even more eco event going on in the city while mainstream designers sent their wares down the runways. We are thrilled to report on The GreenShows Eco Fashion Week, which was held right alongside the mainstream shows at New York’s Fashion Week, from Sunday, February 14-17, 2010.

This season’s GreenShows event was its second annual (after a successful debut during New York Fashion Week last September). So far it is the only exclusively eco-fashion showcase that takes place during Fashion Week. Devoted to showing only eco-friendly, ethically sound and fair-trade designers, The GreenShows promised to keep its production 100% environmentally friendly and energy efficient. Taking place at the aptly-titled 311 E11 Village Green, the first LEED-Gold certified residence in the East Village, with sets made out of recycled and compostable materials, it appears The GreenShows kept to the highest environmental standards.

Ten star designers on the eco-fashion front were chosen to showcase their wares, including Samantha Pleet, Vaute Couture, Popomomo and Gary Harvey (for a complete list of designers, see The GreenShows website).

Samantha Pleet (collection featured top right) is a Brooklyn designer who creates garments from organic cotton and organic wool in a wind-powered NYC factory. She has gained fame as the designer behind Rapscallion for Urban Outfitters and the erstwhile one-half of eco-design duo Bodkin. Her romantic designs, from sweet pleated skirts to plaid rompers to long layered dresses, are clearly retro-inspired—what quirky-indie darling Zooey Deschanel might wear to a movie premiere or just on a bike ride (on a vintage bicycle, natch). Indeed, Eco-Chick writer Starre Vartan reports that Pleet was influenced by the movies—and by romance. “I love cinema and I love my husband, so the line is influenced by that,” Pleet said. The Fall 2010 collection exudes the same charm and whimsy that makes her Urban Outfitters line so popular—only much more eco-chic.

Chicago-based Vaute Couture (pictured above in purple and white coats) is perhaps best know for their line of quality vegan coats (no wool, silk, or animal-derived products are used; instead, designer Leanne Mai-ly Hilgart uses an alternative fiber called Primaloft ECO). Their GreenShows debut featured some gorgeous coats, including one ultra-feminine, high-collared, buttoned style in stunning white, along with knitwear made from soy bean farming waste. Any woman could instantly become a glamazon in one these amazing coats—but knowing she would be stepping out in eco-style makes the luxe designs even more satisfying.

L.A. line Popomomo made its New York Fashion Week debut—and lived up to its name, (which stands for “post-postmodern movement”) with its “City of Quartz” collection (inspired by the Mike Davis book of the same name and CIA satellite images of polar ice caps). The easy-breezy collection featured looks that L.A. girls love, and for good reason. Simple dresses with striking details, like pops of color, ruffles and exposed zippers, may not be ideal for fall on the East Coast; for eco-fashionistas in the City of Angels, however, this line is truly heaven-sent. Organic cotton, recycled polyester, hemp denim and Tencel are just some of the fabrics used in these L.A.-made designs. Like fellow GreenShows featured designer Pleet, Popomomo’s Lizz Wasserman also has “Urban Outfitters designer” on her resume.

British designer Gary Harvey (Tshirt dress pictured above) upped the ante on upcycling with his couture collection of gowns—all created from recycled, upcycled and recyclable materials. Nothing, it seems, is off-limits in Harvey’s imagination, from old Levi’s and wedding dresses to laundry bags and issues of the Financial Times (30 copies, to be exact). His jaw-dropping designs will have you rethinking how to recycle paper—and what on earth to do with all your old t-shirts.

While these clever designers weren’t the only ones to put their visions on display at The GreenShows, the above group represents a few of our favorites. Green Cotton will keep an eye out for more designers like these in the future. We are also currently sifting through the London and Milan Fashion Week shows and will share all the “green” we can find.

We would also love to know: do you follow Fashion Week? If so, what do you think of this season’s shows? Are you eager to see more from The GreenShows next season? We know we are, and can’t wait to see which emerging eco-fashion talents will appear next. Stay tuned to Green Cotton for more Runway coverage!

Image sources:
Photo source: Samantha Pleet plaid romper (photo by Starre Vartan) at Eco-chick
Photo source: Blue Vaute Couture coat, Vaute Couture
Photo source: White VC coat at Ecouterre
Photo source: Popomomo dress
Photo source: John Garvey white organic tshirt dress (Treehugger)

By Erin Dale

February may be cold, snowy and somewhat dreary, but spring fashion is already in stores and fall fashion is already being paraded down the runways. So instead of moping over gray skies, get ready to shine in some new eco-fashion finds. Valentine’s Day may have come and gone, but these sweet styles continue to evoke that romantic feeling for days to come. Here are just a few things we’re loving this month: coats, sweaters, accessories, even makeup! Take a look:

Red is showing up all over the Fall 2010 runway in New York, so get ready to see (and sport!) a lot of this cheery hue. You can get started with Indigenous Design’s adorable little knit dress in ruby, made from organic cotton and Tencel. Keep it subtly sexy by pairing it with opaque tights or leggings and a snuggly sweater coat. We like Indigenous’ red alpaca sweater coat for its bright color and beautiful details. You’ll swoon over the soft, handwoven alpaca wool. This is perfect for a night in or a day out and about.

Not to get all matchy-matchy, but while we’re embracing red, we simply can’t leave out another great knit by Indigenous: the Soho wrap in ruby (pictured below). This organic cotton poncho echoes what we’re seeing on the runway, but it’s functional enough to get you through your day.

As the weather starts to warm up (wishful thinking!), you may want to trade your heavy winter coat for some lighter attire. Even though there’s snow on the ground here in New England, we’ve had some 50 degree days that officially make it sweatshirt weather!

A great piece to have on hand for such days is Prairie Underground’s long cloak hoodie, made from organic cotton jersey. This is the perfect transition piece, and its navy color matches the nautical items you’re likely to encounter in stores’ spring collections. This would look adorable with a Breton striped tee atop leggings or skinny jeans!

Another returning trend for spring is the lightweight scarf. When it’s time to pack your wool ones away, reach for the silk “rose wasabi” ruffled scarf by Sevya (pictured below). Pink and green will be everywhere in a few months, but you can start sporting pastels now with this fair trade, handmade scarf. And even though it’s still cold outside, silk is easy to layer and will keep you warm.

Fair trade Sevya Silk Scarf

Put a little more spring in your step – or on your handbag, hat, sweater, dress – with a hand knit flower pin (pictured above), also by Indigenous. These charming pins are a cute way to add a pop of color and style to your winter wardrobe, while dreaming of real spring blooms…

No ensemble is complete without the shoe, and we’ve scouted some good ones… eco-friendly, vegan boots by NeuAura. Now is the perfect time to go boot shopping, as most winter styles are on sale, and you’ll probably still be wearing boots for a few more months! You can score some sleek, stylish booties or knee-high versions at NeuAura. We like the Kaveri Grey style: the low heel means you’ll be able to rock these all day, but the buckle detail adds intrigue and edge. Also check out the Alre Camel: the 3” heel adds height, but the platform ensures a comfortable stride. And the tan color goes well with winter sweaters and jeans but will really pop with spring’s military-inspired cargos and jackets, paired sweetly with feminine ruffled tops in pink, coral and floral prints. To learn more about NeuAura and its earth-conscious and animal-friendly manufacturing process (and to shop for more awesome shoes!), visit their website.

Give your eco-friendly outfit the perfect finishing touch with some sweet makeup that will have you thinking spring and looking hot. We love Tarte’s Flower Child Natural Cheek Stain. This eco-chic product is made with Tarte’s exclusive T5 Super Fruit Complex, a blend of the five most active superfruits: goji, açaí, maracuja, acerola, and pomegranate. It’s blissfully made without nasty parabens, sulfates, synthetic dyes and fragrances and other chemicals that block your glow. Plus it’s the perfect shade of pink that complements every skin tone. Grab a tube at Sephora.com.

Banish dry winter skin with the Body Shop’s new Love, Etc. lotion. Or collect the whole line, including the Eau de Parfum (a blend of jasmine, neroli and bergamot with notes of vanilla and sandalwood) and body wash, currently available at a reduced price. The Body Shop is a great line to support because the company is against animal testing and for sustainability and community trade.

We hope these finds will help you get through the last winter month. Stay tuned for our Fall 2010 runway review, and for more spring fashion finds! And if you have any eco-fashion suggestions, feel free to sound off in the comments below.

By Erin Dale

The Swedish clothing retailer H&M is usually raved over and blogged about for its bargain-priced, runway-inspired pieces. But recently the company came under fire for reportedly slashing unworn clothing to pieces – using a machine to cut holes in items and render them un-wearable – and tossing the clothes out with the trash.

The dumping was discovered at New York’s 34th street H&M by City University of New York graduate student Cynthia Magnus. When Magnus contacted H&M’s headquarters in Sweden, she received no response. She even offered to connect H&M with a local charity so that it would be easy of them to dispose of the clothing more effectively, but still no response.

Desperate, Magnus told her story to the New York Times. The Times did some follow-up, then published an article on Tuesday, January 5, 2010. Clearly striking a cord with many a reader, the story happened to be the second most tweeted headline of the day. After waking up to the angry national buzz over the issue, H&M finally paid attention to the issue, and released a statement reported in the Times:

“It will not happen again,” said Nicole Christie, a spokeswoman for H&M in New York. “We are committed 100 percent to make sure this practice is not happening anywhere else, as it is not our standard practice.”

The standard practice is, apparently, to donate unworn clothes and shoes to charity. Christie claimed that she did not know why this particular H&M store was destroying clothes, and that the company is investigating its other stores to make sure this wasteful practice is not happening elsewhere.

The New York Clothing Bank is one such charity that would have gladly accepted H&M’s unwanted garments (or similarly-slashed items from a New York City Wal-Mart that was also discovered demolishing clothes and dumping them on 35th street). Mary Lanning, chairwoman of the Clothing Bank, told the Times, “I would welcome H&M, Wal-Mart and every other enterprise that presently is destroying new clothing to call me immediately.”

Allegedly, H&M is also trying to go green. The Times reports that the Sweden-based company “has an executive in charge of corporate responsibility who leads the company’s sustainability efforts. On its Web site, H&M reports that to save paper, it has shrunk its shipping labels.”

This discovery of H&M’s wastefulness could not have come at a worse time— right after the launch of a new “Garden Collection,” which features clothes made from recycled textiles and PET bottles. It’s a nice attempt, but the humiliation H&M has suffered after this unfortunate incident will make it difficult for their “garden” to flourish.

Apparently, H&M is not alone in their dumping of unused, unsold apparel. Writer, researcher Erika Kawalek, a New York-based journalist, published a very interesting and informative piece on Double X following the news of H&M (http://www.doublex.com/blog/xxfactor/why-hm-destroys-unsold-clothes) on why this industry-wide practice is happens. Who would have thought that these unworn clothes often end up as airline seat cushions?  Stay tuned for more on these issues with Erika Kawalek’s forthcoming fashion chronicle, Ragpicker. She’ll offer a rare behind the scenes look at post-market clothing & textiles in the fashion industry.

Photosource top: H&M

By Erin Dale