Green Cotton

Above: Diane Von Furstenburg Collection

Here at Green Cotton, we look at fashion from an eco-eye, discussing sustainable fabrics, fair trade practices, and eco-friendly options for the most discerning fashionista. New York Fashion Week, hardly an all-green event (yet), gives us an opportunity to spy the trends and find “greener” ways to rock them.
I’ve been peeking at the collections all week, and my favorite designers have not disappointed. While there haven’t been any eco shows since last week’s Be EcoChic event, plenty of designers have been showing boho-chic looks that unite the “haute” and the “hippie.”

For a brief fashion history lesson, the term “boho-chic” was coined in the early 2000s to describe the style of British It-Girls Kate Moss and Sienna Miller (fashion lovers to this day continue to dispute which one actually started the trend). Some sources (including a Wikipedia entry) claim that this trend reached its height in 2004-5, and the derivations we’re seeing now can be classified as “boho rock,” even “goth-rock.”

You’ll notice hints of gothic in this fall’s fashions, carrying over from the Fall 2008 collections shown this past spring. But the free-spirited boho look was even more prominent on the runways. Badgley Mischka and Just Cavalli took a trip to the 1970s with relaxed fits and floppy hats. D&G showed tartans, checks and plaids that had a playful, down-home feel. But Gucci best embodied the “haute hippie” and elevated her to rock star glory: right at home with earthy prints and flowing scarves were fringed boots, black skinny pants, bare shoulders and chunky chains.

Despite the debate over its dwindling relevance, boho-chic is clearly still alive and well on the Spring 2009 runways!

Diane Von Furstenburg (featured above) showed plenty of bright colors and dared to mix prints, giving her line a flower child vibe that she dubbed “Rock Goddess.”

Photo: Charlotte Ronson Collection

Charlotte Ronson’s flowy dresses and floral patterns are simple yet chic, exuding peaceful, natural beauty.

Photo: Miss Sixty’s Collection

In Miss Sixty’s very 70s spring collection, scarves, sunglasses and denim onesies abound, with loose silhouettes and bright patterns reminiscent of groovier times.

Photo: Jill Stuart’s Collection

Jill Stuart used a pastel palette to transport the wearer back to the 70s, complete with butterfly sleeves, asymmetrical hemlines, draping scarves and the occasional chunky knit.

Photo: Anna Sui’s Collection

Photo: Anna Sui’s Collection

Anna Sui’s boho girls were sweet as Swiss misses, but still had a rock-and-roll edge. The collection displays a wide range of shapes, from prairie blouses and skirts to sheaths and caftans, along with a dizzying array of colors (orange, fuchsia, royal blue and more rainbow brights compete with a few all-black ensembles) and patterns (floral, geometric shapes, beaded embellishments, even a paisley “peacock” look). There are so many looks, it almost appears the designer couldn’t make up her mind, but the overall bohemian spirit makes the collection feel cohesive.

Photo: Nanette Lepore’s Collection

Nanette Lepore gave the earthy girl a new level of sophistication. She’s grounded her in floral patterns and earth tones but dressed her up in blazers and high-waisted shorts, giving her polish and a slimmer silhouette. This collection shows, perhaps, where the boho-chic trend is headed, but not without a nod to the past: a few baby-dolls and crocheted knits peeked out from bright trenches and slinky silks.

What do you think of the boho-chic trend? Do you think it will still be going strong next season? How do you think it coincides with (or not) the eco-fashion movement? Let us know your thoughts….

Post By Erin Dale

Source: CS Monitor, courtesy of MAS eco-factory Depicts a rendering of the lingerie factory in Sri Lanka (now complete) runs on renewable energy and employs 45,000 workers.

CS Monitor announced last week the completion if the first ever eco-sustainable apparel factory in Sri Lanka. Built with evaporative cooling technology, solar panels and hydro power, the factory is the first of its kind in Asia (and perhaps even worldwide), setting a new standard in apparel manufacturing.

One problem with organic and sustainable garments today is that the fabrics may be green, but so often the manufacturing is anything but (not to mention a majority are still made in sweatshop conditions). The MAS factory solves this problem by greenifying HOW the clothes are made and dramatically reducing the carbon footprint of that part of the process.

With energy-efficient task lighting, low-emission permitting glass (which cuts down on heat transfer), and traditional applications such as courtyard design and tree plantings, the factory is an oasis of low carbon production amidst an industry of profuse waste (e.g. see Cambodian garment factory dumping its refuse in its backyard for passersby to scourge for materials).

Costing 25% more than the average garment factory, the MAS plant will cut and sew lingerie for a number of labels. So far according to the authors, there isn’t a mass retail company out there yet that has developed a full sustainability standard that accounts for the garment across every step of production.

We have the organic certification, but so often that is for the fabric itself and may exclude steps in the production process that occur after the certification. Furthermore, carbon footprint is not a factor separately considered in that certification process. For example, a garment may be made with organically grown cotton, but if coal-fired boilers and poor treatment of waste- water or toxic dyes are used later on, then the garment ultimately has a huge carbon footprint and potentially damaging effects on the environment.

As Linda Greer, a Natural Resources Defense Council senior scientist who specializes in toxic chemical pollution in textiles production notes,

‘true sustainability requires independent certification, extensive consumer-education campaigns, and a desire and ability to review entire supply chains.’

I could not agree this statement more. With certification we move toward a more informed consumer base as well as regulated supplier market, and move away from haphazard ‘green and socially responsible’ labeling with little meaning.

We all know that green-ification of goods costs more and without the strict certification and labeling in place and high levels of consumer awareness, it is very difficult to justify those additional costs. So the question is, how is it that a company like MAS is able to afford and/or justify such a substantial up-front investment?

According to the author, ‘economies of scale is one answer’ but in addition, MAS will arguably save money in the long (and even short run) in energy costs. Furthermore, by being the first to commit at this level, they will gain credibility and loyalty among consumers who are increasingly Green and socially conscious.

Just as Gary Hirshberg, CE-Yo of Stonyfield Farms, reflects in his new book ‘Stirring it Up,’ nearly all of the green decisions he and his company made in its 25 year history proved economical and beneficial for the business in the long run. I might add, in an era of rising fuel costs, how can sustainable, energy efficient architecture and systems not be beneficial? By leveraging energy efficient solutions such as solar, hydro and other technologies, MAS will be ahead of the pack in less than a few years if energy prices continue on their current track.

See CS Monitor for more information.

FutureFashion jump-started a remarkable eco-runway show yesterday in New York with more than 30 top designers showcasing luxurious, hot, AND environmentally-friendly designs. As one of the largest eco-huate couture events to date, designers including Behnaz Sarapfour, Bottega Veneta, Boudicca, Burberry, Calvin Klein, Derek Lam, Diane Von Furstenberg, Donna Karan, Doo.Ri, Doro Olowu, Giambattista Valli, Givenchy, Isabel Toledo, Jil Sander, Marc Jacobs, Marni, Martin Grant, Martin Margiela, Michael Kors, Moschino, Narciso Rodriguez, Ralph Lauren, Rodarte, Rogan, Stella McCartney, Thakoon, Threeasfour, Versace, and Yves Saint Laurent contributed to the success.

Designers made garments with renewable, reusable, non-polluting materials including sasawashi, piña, bamboo, organic cotton and wool, corn-based fibers, recycled fibers and/or fabrics and biopolymers. Designers are encouraged to use techniques that reduce environmental impacts of manufacturing and production as well as source locally produced sustainable materials. For example, designers not only aim to reduce their manufacturing carbon footprint, but also to reduce toxic chemical usage in fabric processing (one concern with bamboo).

As part of Earth Pledge, FutureFashion is an initiative to educate, research and demonstrate the inherent value and increasing potential of fusing style with sustainability within the fashion industry. Fashion week 2008 is one of their many events of this year.

FutureFashion notes that ‘25% of agricultural pesticides are used on cotton, causing major water pollution, chronic illness in farm workers, and devastating impacts on wildlife. In the United States, cancer rates in states that produce cotton are significantly higher than in neighboring states that do not. The acidic chemicals used to process synthetic fabrics find their way into our rivers and streams, lowering the pH and destroying ecosystems. Materials such as bamboo and hemp are faster growing, more durable, and more renewable than conventional textiles. ‘

According to FutureFashion, sustainable style is attainable and does not require limitations in the variety or quality of products that designers offer: from couture to sportswear to home furnishings.

More information: http://ap.google.com/article/ALeqM5jj12tiyXwcmvhCzVTXBUsLiGhnjQD8UHPSQG0

Top Photo by Dan Lecca
Top Dress by Halston

PATAGONIA!

Patagonia is the first major US company to initiate sourcing organic cotton for their shirts, and they did so in 1996. In the early 1990’s, Patagonia issued am R&D study to look at the environmental impacts of all their fabrics and processing. Much to their surprise, cotton came out the worst. As a result, Patagonia took significant steps toward making the same products (at almost the same price) with organic fibers, and eliminating damaging pesticide and excessive water use in the process.

Interestingly, this was not a demand by Patagonia’s customers, it came from within management. In fact, Patagonia did not aggressively market the organic fibers much at that time, since their customers were not much concerned with the fabrics’ source at the time. However, since then, more than a handful of consumers and companies are now cognizant of and interested in where and how fabrics are sourced. Patagonia has been and continues to be a true pioneer in the green apparel space. To learn more about their steps toward sourcing organic cotton, check out the Footprint Chronicles at Patagonia.

This week’s Quiz Winner is ricepaperslidingdoor. Congratulations ricepapersldingdoor!

Honorable mention goes to Kelven Goodridge who guessed American Apparel in 2003.

Stay tuned for the next quiz question!

Photo source: Flickr by Kamiekam

Of all the organic fibers/fabrics on the market today, organic cotton is by far the most popular. Here are some interesting and important facts about organic cotton and the certification process provided by the Organic Trade Association.

What is “organic cotton”?
‘Organic cotton is grown using methods and materials that have a low impact on the environment. Organic production systems replenish and maintain soil fertility, reduce the use of toxic and persistent pesticides and fertilizers, and build biologically diverse agriculture. Third-party certification organizations verify that organic producers use only methods and materials allowed in organic production.’

National Organic Standards Board (NOSB) is one third party board tasked with assisting the assist the Secretary of Agriculture in developing standards for substances to be used in organic production. The NOSB a definition of Organic was passed by the NOSB at its April 1995 meeting in Orlando, FL.

“Organic agriculture is an ecological production management system that promotes and enhances biodiversity, biological cycles and soil biological activity. It is based on minimal use of off-farm inputs and on management practices that restore, maintain and enhance ecological harmony.

How much organic cotton is grown globally?
‘In 2000-2001, international production was approximately 6,368 metric tons (slightly more than 14 million pounds, or 29,248 bales), grown in 12 countries, according to data from the Pesticide Action Network of the United Kingdom and from the Organic Trade Association (OTA). This represents about 0.03% of worldwide cotton production. Turkey and the United States were the leading producers of organic cotton, followed by India, Peru, Uganda, Tanzania, Egypt, Senegal, Israel, Greece, Benin and Brazil.

How much organic cotton is grown in the U.S.?
Based on OTA’s 2005 survey of U.S. organic cotton producers funded by Cotton Incorporated, farmers in four states harvested 6,814 bales (3,270,720 pounds) of organic cotton from 5,550 acres during 2004. This is an increase from the 4,628 bales harvested from 4,060 acres in 2003. Texas continues to lead the United States in organic cotton production, with limited acreage also planted in California, New Mexico, and Missouri. In 2005, U.S. farmers planted 6,577 acres of organic cotton. Harvest figures for 2005 are not yet available.’ Are they not? They must be available now…

How is the apparel industry involved with organic cotton?
‘Apparel companies are developing programs that either use 100 percent organically grown cotton, or blend small percentages of organic cotton with conventional cotton in their products. There are a number of companies driving the expanded use of domestic and international organic cotton. For a current list of OTA members with fiber products, visit The Organic Pages Online at http://www.ota.com/.’

What kinds of products are made using organic cotton?
Organic cotton fiber is used in ‘everything from personal care items (sanitary products, make-up removal pads, cotton puffs and ear swabs), to home furnishings (towels, bathrobes, sheets, blankets, bedding), children’s products (toys, diapers), [and] clothes.’ In addition, organic cottonseed is used for animal feed, and organic cottonseed oil is used in a variety of food products, including cookies and chips.

How fast is the organic fiber market growing?
In 2003, organic fiber sales in the US grew by 22.7 % to reach $85 million, according to the Organic Trade Association’s 2004 Manufacturer Survey. Sales of organic women’s clothing during that period grew by 33.6%, while organic infant’s clothing and diaper sales grew 20.5 %. Sales of organic men’s clothing grew by 11 %, and children’s and teen’s clothing sales grew by 15.8 %. Meanwhile, sales of organic sheets and towels grew by 17.9 %, and those for organic mattresses and pillows increased 8.3 percent. Participants in the survey predicted that U.S. sales of organic fiber would grow an average of 15.5 percent each year for 2004 through 2008.

Issues with Organic Apparel Certification: One main issue with certification in green apparel is that certification focuses on the farming and raw fiber (agriculture) and not on the processing. In the case of bamboo and potentially other highly processed fibers this is a critical step, and has a significant impact not only on the environment but also on the cloth that we put on bare skin, including babies and young children. Apparently a change is underway to revise the definition of organic for apparel purposes but I have yet to see the final definition and certification process.

However it appears that OTA along with NOSB and several other interested organizations are in the process of creating standards for processing as well as growing organic fibers. In fact an international working group: Global Organic Textile Standard has been working on this issue for quite some time. Key partners include: International Association Natural Textile Industry (IVN), based in Germany, as well as Social Association (England), OTA (USA) and Japan Organic Cotton Association (JOCA) are all members.

At the same time, OTA also recognizes that the American Organic Fiber Processing Standards (AOFPS) remain as policy guidance for OTA members and others in the organic community of the United States and Canada. What are these standards exactly and is it possible to certified organic fiber processor? It is not super clear, but stay tuned for more information as I dig it up.

Another issue is that for some, the certification definition is too narrow. By only considering the environmental impacts, the certification avoids important issues related to social, cultural and economic values. I suppose this is one reason why we also have the Fair Trade certification process, which accounts for some of those issues. I am actually in favor of keeping the two elements separate because they are separate issues, and for those companies that are both socially as well as environmentally integrated, and go forth with both certification processes, it adds tremendous value to their brand and products.

More about the NOSB: The Organic Foods Production Act of 1990, part of the 1990 Farm Bill, authorized the Secretary of Agriculture to appoint a 15-member National Organic Standards Board (NOSB). The board’s main mission is to assist the Secretary in developing standards for substances to be used in organic production. The NOSB also advises the Secretary on other aspects of implementing the national organic program.

Photo Source: Flickr by the purl bee (blue sky organic alpaca cotton)